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slightly larger than this pattern but for now we want the pattern to fit just like you see here when the cushion cover is complete here's how it will fit in that chair almost perfect we've chosen to use the fairfield poly fill new foam which is available from sailrite we've laid the pattern material on top of this four inch foam and notice we're marking about a half inch outside the pattern that we made so about a half inch away from the pattern material this will make the foam a little bit oversized all around the perimeter when the cover is installed the phone will be compressed slightly to cut this compressed densified polyester batting insert your scissors about an inch or so into the foam and start cutting this type of compressed polyester batting will not cut with a foam cutter you must use scissors or a utility knife here you can see Angela peeling away the layer that she cut through and then she's going to start down underneath that layer she already cut and cut another inch or so off of the foam batting we'll be using that same foam piece we just cut to make the pattern for our fabric we've laid this foam on top of the fabric with the underside facing up the wrong side is facing up and then we're marking it with a sharpie marker a fine point sharpie marker but you can use a number two pencil mark the forward edge as well don't go all the way across but just mark its location as you can see we're using a four inch foam so we're going to add not four inches but three inches here to the center this will be the front of the cushion that's why we had to place that mark on the fabric and she's placing a mark on the other side here then she'll take that foam again and lay it directly over that mark first she's going to strike a straight line up to that point there the reason we go three inches here or add three inches at the center's because the cover will compress the foam by approximately an inch so we don't want to add four inches there only three inches then make a mirror image of the foam on the opposite side of the fabric this will be the top plate and the bottom plate where she added the three inches she's placing a mark in the center of that so one and a half inches from the mark that will be used later on now we're going to place a ruler on the underside of this and use the sailrite edge hotknife to cut out this 100 polyester fabric as long as you're cutting a synthetic fabric we recommend using a hot knife to prevent unraveling of the fabric if it's a cotton fabric you won't be able to use a hot knife you could use pinking shears for that after you're done cutting it out fold it in half to determine if it's the same size as it is on the other side it is it's perfect ready to move on now we're going to concentrate on cutting and sewing the piping we'll be making our own piping utilizing the same fabric as we are for the entire cushion so we're cutting or measuring actually strips of fabric that are one and a quarter inches wide so here she's using that sharpie marker you could use a pencil if you prefer which I typically do and marking the fabric to one and a quarter inches in width she'll make several strips of these since we need enough piping to wrap around the entire sides of the cushion and also include the back so here are 4 strips now we'll use the sailrite edge hotknife and cut those strips out we placed a marker on the underside to prevent damage to the table top most upholstery fabrics will unravel this one's been cut with a hot knife and does not unravel but let's show you what will happen if you cut it with scissors it'll unravel easily which makes the labor of constructing the cushion difficult because you have to contend with all the unraveling so that's why we recommend using a hot knife a hot knife seals the edge of the fabric and prevents it from unraveling we're cutting off the selvage edge of these strips that we cut for the piping because those are unfinished now we'll take it to the sewing machine and join these strips together notice how we lay the strips on top of each other to form an L then we'll sew across with a straight stitch diagonally from corner to corner as we sew we'll do some reversing at the beginning to lock our stitch in place and some reversing at the end this is a rather small stitch so we have to just sew across to the next corner and reverse here as well this will give us a nice finished transition as we transition from one strip to the next here's what it looks like when you fold it to the outside surface looks nice we'll join all of those strips together following that same procedure will not show all of this now you can insert your piping and take it to the sewing machine with the cording foot installed and sew along it or you can do as Angela is doing here she's using double-sided tape this is the double-sided tape for canvas and basting it on the side of the strip's that are used to cover the piping peel off the transfer paper revision the glue and then she places her foam cording inside the middle of that strip and folds it over to the double-sided tape and that holds it in place the advantage of doing it this way is that you won't see a preliminary stitch because some people actually take to sewing machine and sew a preliminary stitch and then take it and sew it onto the cushion this will prevent a possible stitch from ever showing up when you're done with the cushion not a bad idea but it's a little bit labor-intensive here we are coming to a junction we would just want to show what that looks like looks nice as it transitions from one piece to the next she'd move her figure there it is - so that piping on to the actual cushion cover we're going to take the cover material fold it in half and then fold it down its length and find the center location in the back of the cushion and she's marking it here on the inside of the fabric not the outside with the sharpie marker this is where we want to join the piping together at the rear of the cushion she's marked it on both this side and also the top side so now she's just placing another mark there so she can easily find it and just placing an arrow there so here's where the piping will be joined together so she'll start or piping approximately two inches away from that mark so there's excess piping at the back so it can be joined in the later step on the sailrite 111 sewing machine the cording foot has been installed she'll place the piping in the tunnel of the cording foot now this fabric is no longer folded it is laying flat which you can't see very well in the text but we do not have multiple layers as only a single layer she'll then carefully sew it in place matching up the tail edge of the piping with the edge of the fabric sometimes customers will pin the piping to the fabric but it's not necessary if you do it very slowly as angela is doing here now this is the preliminary stitch and we don't really want those stitches to show up when we join the boxing to this piping so you can actually help to feed the piping through the cording tunnel so the stitch is as far away from the piping as possible so angela is if you notice feeding the piping slightly to the left as she faces the sewing machine this will keep that stitch a little bit further away from the piping this preliminary stitch will not show up when the entire cushion is complete to stop sewing about five inches from where you started sewing and here you can see that arrow where the piping will be joined together she's going to trim the side of the piping where we began so that it's about an inch past that arrow then she's going to peel apart the fabric that overlays the piping cord if you've stitched it you'll have to rip some stitches up since we use double-sided tape we can just peel it apart that exposes the piping cord we're going to create a single hem here at the edge so fold the fabric in approximately 1/2 inch and there we go now we'll take the other side where it will cross over that piping and determine where to cut it we want it longer by about an inch so we're going to cut it here next we'll feel where the piping crosses over each other and we'll cut that side that we created the him off so that it is flush with the opposite end of the piping that will come up and butt up against it she's going to cut it to a slight angle here now when you piece those pieces together they'll be butted up to each other exactly we're going to peel apart the fabric on the opposite end this is the end that does not have the hem and this is the end end that does have the him peel that up too as well she's going to use masking tape to join these two piping cords together this is probably not necessary it's all up to preference this is the way she likes to do cushions social join those piping pieces together so they're buttered up flush then shall lay that fabric piece that is not hemmed in place and then the piece over top of it that is hemmed this gives it a nice finished look now she'll put it back at the sewing machine and continue that preliminary stitch all the way through that Junction to the other side when you get to the junction be sure that it's laying nice and flat take your time the more time you spend at this the more beautiful the results and as with most so sewing you want to do some reversing at the beginning and the end to lock your stitch in place since this is a bull nose cushion it does not have boxing along the front it's already built into the plates however along the sides it does here's where the zipper intersects so we need to measure approximately how long the boxing will be for the sides where we want the zipper to be started at the back of the cushion so we want our boxing to be approximately 18 inches or longer our foam is four inches in thickness so we want to cut a boxing that is four inches in height so we're measuring this fabric and we've cut a strip that is four inches high we did not add any four seam allowance because we want the cushion to be compressed when it's done this single strip will be long enough because folded in half it is longer than eighteen inches so this will suffice beautifully she's placed marks at the center to determine where the center of it is and then uses the hot knife to cut it in half so this will equal our two pieces of boxing that's required for the sides of the cushion here where she cut that boxing or facing strip in half she's going to create rounded corners she's using a sharpie marker to do that and then she uses the hot knife to trim the rounded corners this is where this boxing will be joined to the front portion of the cushion the portion that already has the boxing or facing built into the plates with a pencil on the backside mark the center of those boxing strips on the ends with those rounded corners that is the location where we will start sewing back at the beginning of this text we marked on the fabric the center location this is where the boxing will be joined to the plates at that center location that we marked way earlier in the text it must be centered so she's lining up the marks noticed that the outside surfaces are facing each other and she flips the panel around so the boxing is hop or sometimes referred to as facing make sure the marks are directly on top of each other and she'll start sewing there now this stitch will not be visible so this stitch should be as close to the piping as possible the cording foot is installed on the sailrite 111 sewing machine now she's coming to the corner of the boxing and notice that she pulls the boxing so that it's flush with the edge of the piping and the plate that's underneath it so she created a nice Junction or nice corner and then she continues to match up the boxing with the edge of the piping and the plate underneath take your time and so is close to the piping once this stitch is close to the piping as possible this will hide the preliminary stitch that we talked about earlier and it'll make the piping nice and snug angela has not yet marked where the zipper will start so she's determining where she wants the zipper to start approximately there's no hard fast rules on this you just want the zipper opening to be large enough to insert the foam so it can't actually be smaller than what Angela is marked and she will stop sewing about an inch away from that mark and do some reversing there to lock the stitch in place so the boxing or facing is not very long as you can see here in the text because that's where the zipper will start at the back edge of this cushion now we're going to sew the other side of the same boxing strip so she flips the cushion around so the boxing's on the underside now we started at the center again and sew around that side as well notice that the boxing on the bottom side is still being pulled around so the edges are flush as she sews the corner as is the normal practice was sewing anytime you make major adjustments to the fabric make sure you bury your needle in the fabric so you don't lose your last position I don't know if you can see it well in the text but notice the preliminary stage that joined the piping to the plates it is outside the stitch that we're creating now that's because this stitch is very close to the piping our preliminary stitch will never be seen we're not going to cut any text out here we want to show sewing all the way to the position that we started the boxing on the opposite side so try to stop right where you stopped when you created the first stitch on the other side of this boxing strip we'll need to follow that same procedure for the opposite boxing strip on the other side first we're going to determine the stop location and mark it on the other side once that's done we can start sewing the other boxing strip for a facing strip to the opposite side following that same procedure again always make sure the outside surfaces are facing each other we are not going to show this process because we basically just showed you exactly how to do it in the previous step it's the same procedure done again so we're going to skip ahead now both boxing sides are installed now we can trim them to size so we want to trim them approximately an inch away from that mark we marked on the plate so we're going to use the sailrite edge hotknife and trim it so that it's straight do that on this side and we'll do that on the opposite side as well notice that there's two or three inches of boxing that has not yet been sewn down that's important because we're going to create a him on the end of the boxing and just being sure that the zipper will start in the same location and shall trim this side as well we'll use that sarod edge hotknife yet again to seal the edge of the fabric now on both of these boxing ends we're going to create approximately 1/2 inch him a single him and sew it in place reversing at the beginning and the end to lock our stitch in place we'll also do that on the second piece as well will not show all of this alright we're done with the boxing it's now time to make the zipper black there are multiple ways to make a zipper plaque but we're going to show you one of my favorites here we're determining how long the zipper should be and be sure that it's at least four inches longer than the back side of the cushion that you created Shandra is going to cut up to size here with scissors we're using a coil YKK zipper and we're going to measure the width of the zipper the width of this zipper is one and a quarter inches approximately so our foam was four inches and we made boxing that was four inches we need to add the width of the zipper in this situation it was one and a quarter inches to the width of the foam so four inches plus one and a quarter is five and a quarter inches we're going to cut a strip of fabric that is five and a quarter inches for our application we'll then use the sailrite edge hot knife and cut the strip to size if you want to use a hot knife like this and don't have don't have a professional one like the sailrite edge you can use a wood burning tool or a soldering gun or pinking shears doesn't work as well as a hot knife but it will work now we're going to cut this strip to the length of our zipper plus an extra few inches as is always wise then we're going to fold this strip down its length so the outside surfaces are on the inside then we're going to place that zipper along the folded edge and Mark where the flange end ends with a pencil that's where we want this preliminary stitch to be made we are not going to reverse here because we're going to be ripping the stitch out in a future step we've also installed the deluxe magnetic guide this guide is great because it works like a fence on a table saw it helps to keep your work feeding in the sewing machine of the same distance make sure the fold is in the center and then start sewing it's a good idea to sew with the longest stitch length because we are going to be ripping the stitch out and remember no reversing now we'll simply sew down the length of that strip of fabric that will be created for our zipper Angela instinctively puts her hand on the reverse lever because she is so used to reversing but notice she remembers oh yeah no reversing now we'll take our scissors and carefully cut down the folded portion of this fabric keeping this cut right in the center so take your time doing this no reason to use a hotknife the edges will not Ravel much when you're sewing the zipper down now splay this assembly open if you're using a coil zipper be sure the teeth are going to be facing down if you're using a vis Lanza / it is not important it doesn't matter this is a coil zipper so our teeth are facing down and we want to Center this zipper on top of that splayed open portion that we just cut will position our walking foot on the sarah 111 so that it is walking right next to the teeth of the zipper the teeth are facing down and we'll sew along its edge reverse at the beginning to lock your stitch in place and sew all the way down its length being sure the zipper is centered in the middle of that splayed open section if you've cut it exactly right that means the edges of the zipper will be flush with the edges of the portion that you just cut take your time making sure the zipper stays centered between the splay and the stitches in the same location then reverse it around and start from the opposite in so you can sew the other side reverse the beginning and wall so reverse at the end this keeps the stitch exactly in the same location because you're starting from the opposite end all the way to the opposite in reverse there as well now all we need to do is rip those preliminary stitches using the sailrite deluxe seam ripper and you have a beautiful zipper black as mentioned earlier there are multiple ways to install or make a zipper plaque this is what I find to be the easiest and also the most beautiful hides the zipper nicely now we need to install the slider we'll pull the zipper teeth apart feed on the fat portion of the slider so the edges of the zipper are flush on opposite sides push the slider into position then pull on the slider tab to pull the slider into position on the teeth the most common mistake in making a cushion is forgetting to install the slider so don't forget that position the slider in the center of the zipper plaque and you're ready for the next step we're almost done with the cushion now we need to sew the zipper plaque to the actual cover we're going to fold the zipper plaque and have to determine where the center is and mark its location with a pencil this is the outside surface that angela is marking now we'll Center the zipper plaque on the backside of the cushion remember we marked it earlier angela will walk the zipper along the side to determine where it should begin and she's going to start sewing at that location the cording foot is still installed on the sewing machine so we're going to start sewing there reversing to lock our stitch in place and sew all the way around securing the zipper plaque to the plate the zipper black is on the bottom side and be sure the outside surfaces are facing each other don't install it wrong side up outside surfaces must face each other okay you should pretty much know how to do this we'll want to sew all the way to the end of the zipper plaque we're going to skip ahead Oh remember not to sew the second portion of the cushion notice that it is laying to the left you don't want to sew that in so make sure that's out of the way here we are we skipped forward to the end you can see the zipper plaque end at the bottom side and shall do some reversing here now we'll turn this whole assembly so that we're working with the zipper plaque on the top side and we'll sew the opposite side of the zipper plaque so now we can see the zipper plaque on the top and it's facing the plate down below we'll sew all the way around the perimeter just as we did with the opposite side we'll skip ahead to the end here make sure the folded portion of the boxing is down flat so that it does not get caught someplace so through that there's the double hem we just sewed through all the way to the end of the zipper plaque do some reversing there now we can open up the zipper completely and turn the assembly right-side out we still need to sew the ends of the zipper plaque and that's what we're going to do next from the outside of the cushion you can also inspect your work here to be sure that your piping looks good and you can research it if you need to ours looks pretty good so now we're going to concentrate on closing up the zipper plaque so the slider does not come off so we're going to feed it back into the sewing machine and sew across we're going to leave enough of the fabric so that the zipper slider can actually be pushed back underneath the fabric slightly so we're going to sew approximately an inch from the double or the single hem I'm sorry so we'll start it here and sew down reversing to lock the the sin place and to also close off the end of the zipper notice that we are not sewing all the way up to the piping it's really not necessary to sew all the way up to the piping we're going to stop just short of the piping reverse back over the teeth be careful that your needle doesn't deflect as you do that and that finishes it off we'll do that on the other side as well when I'm going to show that now all we need to do is insert the foam this foam is a compressed polyester batting that we've chosen to use and it easily slides into the cover we left a pretty big zipper opening in the back side of the cover so it's pretty easy to push this foam in and to get it positioned appropriately and just going to use our fingers to push it up into the corners and make sure the cover fits nicely we're going to show this in double time once you're happy and you feel the foam is pushed into the cover as far as it'll go you can zip the zipper shut and then as always work the piping so that it is right on the corner of the cushion boy she's beautiful looks nice see how the slider is kind of hidden there's the back side of the zipper with our zipper plaque and you can also see the where the piping joins together looks good fit it into the chair and it's a perfect fit a little bit oversized exactly how we want it here's the materials list that was used to build this cushion we've chosen to use a p/kaufmann outdoor fabric there are hundreds of fabrics that can be chosen at the sailrite website for outdoor applications and as always we at sailrite stand ready to answer any questions you may have about this project or any other canvas or upholstery project this is one of the many projects that we did in the complete fabric porch makeover if you'd like to watch before and after shots be sure to click on this text for more free texts like this check out the sailrite website or subscribe to the sailrite youtube channel today it's your loyal patronage to sailrite that makes these free texts possible thanks for your support you
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